Recipe Corner
Online Cookbook
Are cookbooks printed on paper outdated and
old-fashioned? Golly, I don’t know. I hope not because I have a bunch
of them. The thought of publishing a book-form cookbook really distresses
me though. First and foremost, I would have to travel to promote the book,
and this would put me at a distance from my reliable food sources. The thought
of not knowing exactly on each particular day where I am going to find some
really good things to eat gives me great pause. (That was, obviously, the
inspiration for designing the restaurant-search portion of this website to
begin with.)
So how about if I publish an online cook-book right here for
everybody to look at free? OK, but the recipes will be both short form (if
you’re hungry and don’t have much time) and long form (if you
want to learn how to cook). So this cookbook will be both a collection of
recipes and a manual for cooking.
Cook with Brain or Heart?
There is a little
controversy currently brewing (tempest in a teapot?) among some of the television
food cooks as to whether one should cook with one’s heart or with one’s
brain. Free-spirit versus book-smart. Of course neither is correct, and I
suspect that even the participants in this discussion know that, but that
they are using this topic simply as a posturing device to drum up some audience
reaction. The truth is that cooking is exciting because one uses one’s
brain, heart, and senses -- all at the same time. (How could they forget
the senses???) Certainly, there is nothing wrong with following someone else’s
recipe to the letter, especially when you are just beginning to cook. With
experience, however, you want to feel free to re-interpret any and all recipes,
developing your own flavor preferences and creating your own palette of seasonings,
herbs, and spices. This is the heart part.
And above all, and at all stages of cooking expertise, you want to open
all your senses and experience the touch, smell, sight, sound, and taste
of the foods you are preparing. Great chefs are great because of this intimate
contact and rapport with the foods they use, combined with probing intellects
that are both flexible and highly disciplined.
Let’s Get Cooking!!!
I would like to open the cookbook by showing you a series of recipes, each
of which will illustrate a different cooking technique. Once you learn the
basic technique, you can apply it to many different kinds of foods. Happy
Eating!
Sautéed Shrimp with Garlic and Lemon
A sauté is executed
very quickly, over high heat, with just a small amount of oil. Do not wander
away from the stove!
Ingredients:
- 3T Ground sea salt or Kosher salt
- 1T Ground black pepper
- 1 lb. saltwater shrimp 16/20 or 21/25 size (but do not use “Black
Tiger” or freshwater shrimp)
- Juice of one lemon (remove seeds)
- 2T fresh minced garlic
- 2T extra-virgin olive oil
- 2T canola oil
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Recipe: Short Form
In a hurry? Follow these quick steps.
1) Devein and peel shrimp, leaving
the tail and the last shell segment on.
2) Rinse shrimp under cold water
and pat as dry as you can with paper towels.
3) Just before cooking, toss
the shrimp with the salt and pepper. (If you are using less than a pound
of shrimp, use proportionately less of the other ingredients.)
4) Combine
the olive and canola oils in a sauté pan and heat on highest flame
until the first wisp of smoke appears.
5) Add the shrimp to the pan, quickly
arranging the shrimp on the bottom of the pan in one layer. (If you are cooking
the whole pound of shrimp, you will need to cook several batches.) Do not
crowd the pan: each shrimp must be lying flat on the pan bottom to brown
properly. Leave the heat on high and do not stir or shake the pan once you
have arranged the shrimp.
6) After about 2 minutes, when the shrimp have
begun to brown lightly, quickly turn each one over individually with your
tongs. Wait about 30 seconds and then add the minced garlic. Now shake the
pan lightly or stir gently so that the garlic does not brown at all.
7) Remove
shrimp from pan as soon as they are done: they will be fully cooked when
they lose the last trace of translucency (raw appearance) at the thickest
part.
8) Immediately add the lemon juice to the pan and reduce for one minute.
Pour the lemon juice and any remaining garlic bits over the shrimp and serve.
(Accompany with plain white or basmati rice.)
Recipe: Long Form
Have some
time to deal with cooking theory? Read on.
Cooking this simple dish to perfection
requires lots of attention to the fundamental cooking technique.
1) Most
likely you’ll be using frozen shrimp. They’re fine, just buy
them in a 5-pound block like the restaurants do to save money. Compass Brand
and Ocean Garden are among the finest frozen “finger-packed” shrimp
from the Gulf of Mexico. (These blocks of frozen shrimp fanned out with their
tails all lined up are works of art in themselves.) You can defrost part
of a block in a colander under cold running water and then wrap the remaining
frozen part in plastic wrap, seal it in a plastic bag and pop it in the freezer
again. (Don’t forget to label and date it.) By the way, the number
designation refers to the number of pieces of shrimp per pound. For example,
16/20 means you get between 16 and 20 shrimp in each pound. The bigger the
shrimp, the lower the number. Leaving the tail and the last shell section
attached to the shrimp gives a much more appetizing look, but if you think
your diners will be averse to removing the shells, you can takes the tails
off before cooking. I much prefer them left on. “Black Tiger” or
freshwater shrimp are cheaper, but to me they are bland, necessitating tons
of salt, and, worse, they cook very quickly, making it nearly impossible
not to overcook them.
2) One of the keys to a good sauté is to have
ingredients as dry as possible before placing them in the pan. Any water
left on our shrimp, for example, will turn instantly to steam and thereby
inhibit the browning action which occurs at temperatures much higher than
the temperature of steam. Flavors developed by browning are essential to
sauté, so pat those shrimp as dry as you can.
3) Add the salt just
before cooking! This is true when cooking almost any type of food. Salt added
more than five minutes before cooking will begin to draw the moisture out
of meat or fish, resulting in a drier, tougher product. In fact, this process
we call curing and it has its place in our repertoire of cooking techniques,
but it is not part of the sauté process! (This is the reason why you
do not add salt to marinades.) Use Kosher salt or sea salt, but never use
that fine granulated iodized salt that comes in the round boxes. I know we
all grew up with that, but it really is inferior. Try a taste test and prove
it for yourself. Then read the label on the round box and find out what sorts
of chemicals you’re ingesting in addition to the sodium. Please stick
with sea salt or Kosher salt. Add the pepper here too, together with the
salt, though this is not as critical. Since black pepper is a spice, this
is really optional, and according to taste.
4) Olive and canola are the two
principal oils you should be using for cooking, both at home and in the professional
kitchen. They both have high smoke points, making them great for sauté,
and they are both very good from a nutritional point of view. Canola is cheaper,
but tastes bland, so mix with some extra-virgin olive oil for more flavor.
(There are very good commercial blends on the market: 80% canola and 20%
extra-virgin, for example.) Don’t forget when adding oil to a sauté pan
-- oil expands like everything else when it heats up, so put a little bit
less in the pan than you think you’ll need. Watch the oil like a hawk,
and when you see the first trace of smoke, add the shrimp. Putting the food
in the hot oil will lower the pan temperature somewhat, so don’t worry
about burning the shrimp. A common mistake in sautéing is to put the
item to be cooked in the pan before the oil is properly heated. This usually
results in a greasy under-cooked product, since the food will tend to absorb
the oil at a lower temperature instead of browning properly.
5) Lay the shrimp
into the oil with your tongs in a motion away from you so there is no risk
of splashing yourself with hot oil.
6) Another common sauté error
is to put too much food in the pan. Crowding the pan lowers the temperature
and allows moisture to build up in the pan, once again impeding the browning
process. Position the shrimp carefully so that they just fill the bottom
of the pan in one layer.
7) And don’t forget, letting the shrimp brown
without stirring or shaking the pan after you arrange them initially is also
important to attaining a tasty and visually-appealing final product. Don’t
play with them in the pan!
8) After about 2 minutes, when the shrimp have
browned nicely, turn each one over individually with your tongs. Wait about
30 seconds and add the minced garlic. In another 30 seconds shake the pan
and check for doneness. When they have lost the last trace of translucency
(raw look) at the thickest part, THEY ARE DONE! I have to emphasize this
because most cooks and even chefs overcook shrimp. This is a culinary tragedy.
Shrimp must be removed from heat the instant they are done, otherwise they
become dry and tough. Please concentrate on this. If you can’t get
this right, email me.
9) Remove shrimp and garlic from the pan when the shrimp
are done. The garlic was added late to the pan to avoid browning it. Even
browned garlic has a burned flavor, so be very careful here to add the garlic
late to the pan so that it does not brown.
10) Reduce the lemon juice in
the sauté pan for about a minute and pour it over the cooked shrimp.
Remember lemon seeds are bitter and they must be removed. Whatever you do,
please do not use bottled lemon juice. Refrigerated, fresh-squeezed lemon
juice available in quarts is OK, but the bottled, processed kind is really
nasty.
11) Serve and devour. Happy Eating!